Swordfighting Guide

(Kindly borrowed from ypp forum help):

You will notice that as a new player you have a 'Foil'. Other Sword types can be acquired in the game, by order from the Ironmonger or from other pirates. Different Swords have different strike patterns, which can be seen by mousing-over the sword in your Booty panel. As you can see, these different kinds of Sword have different strike patterns. The colour of the guard and pommel determine where the four block colours fit within the sword's pattern.

Choosing a Blade

Some swords are clearly better than others for certain play-styles, although there is dispute about the most deadly of blades, and different swordmasters have their own preferences.

No blade will guarantee a win and even the lowly foil can be devastating in the hands of a Master Swordfighter. You should, then, choose any new blade based on your own play-style and the theme of your pirate.

Many have studied the intricacies of sword construction and use. The nuances of each pattern could be (and have been) debated at length by some of the best Swordfighters in the seas. Here are some simple guidelines:

If you shatter frequently in small, sprinkle attacks, try a stiletto, dirk, short sword or poniard.

If you are a builder and like to make large, solid sword attacks go with a long sword, saber or scimitar.

Finally, these swords are relatively balanced between the two and thus differentiate themselves in subtler ways: foil, skull dagger, cutlass, falchion, rapier and cleaver.

Strike Patterns

Strike patterns work from the top-down, so for example, were one to destroy a 2x2 block using the Foil in our example then a 1x4 sword would fall onto your opponent. Were it to fall on the left side side of his board it would turn into, from the top down, blue blue red red. Were it to fall on the right, yellow yellow green green.

Analysing and reacting to the strike pattern of your opponent's blade is central to the Mastery of Swordfighting. Knowledge of a blade means you can use its strengths against it.

Right/Left-Handed (taken from the page linked below)

The colors of the sword guard and hilt only affect the colors sent to the opponent, but the make of the sword determines the drop pattern's structure.

However, the drop pattern can be reflected to the left or right. If the guard color is blue, green, or purple, the drop pattern is the horizontal
mirror image of what it would be for any other guard color. This is sometimes called "Mirroring" or "Reversed", but I prefer the terms "Right-handed" for normal orientation (red/yellow/orange/white/black guard) and "Left-handed" for abnormal orientation (blue/green/purple).

Even though the drop structure is the same, some swords are better when right-handed and others are better left-handed. This is because sprinkles and sword strikes are more likely to fall on the left half than the right half (because the drop zone is on the right half of the board). In particular, the game avoids sending strikes down column 4 (the drop start) unless necessary.

So 1-2, 2-3, and 5-6 strikes have equal probability, but two thirds of them land on the left side and one third on the right side. So its always better to have a sword's stronger half on the left and weaker half on the right. Changing the handedness of the sword changes where the weaknesses and strengths are in the drop pattern.

http://forums.puzzlepirates.com/community/mvnforum/viewthread?thread=5091&highlight=sword*